Viva Burrito

Quick Mex in Government Center

by Justine Kerr

on the cheap

Wok 'N Roll, June 1 Andale Mexican Grill, May 25 Yely's Coffee Shop, May 18 Taquería La Mexicana, May 11

The secret of Viva Burrito is out. Lunchtime lines -- populated mostly by hungry types from the nearby hospitals and government offices -- snake through the restaurant's interior, as the folks manning the grill dish up overflowing tortillas with assembly-line precision. Although Viva is located in an anonymous strip of stores near the new county courthouse, the space inside has a very personal feel, with huge Mexican murals, a cool tiled floor, and butcher-block tables.

A midtown burrito joint would probably pull in patrons anyway, but Viva goes the extra mile with its food. You can see the ingredients sitting right there behind the counter: crisp lettuce, soft tortillas, shredded cheese. The high volume means that nothing sits for more than a few moments at a time. Viva also exceeds expectations with the variety of its menu: you can get a basic cheese quesadilla ($2.95) or a spicy Cajun snapper taco ($5.55). Desserts, too, are good: although the flan ($2.50) was gooey and bland (so unfortunate), the coconut cheesecake ($2.75) redeemed the dessert menu with a rich and creamy custard.

A word of warning: this is messy business. The entrées are all supersized -- plan on finishing your meal later -- and require two hands to maneuver from the cardboard tray to your mouth.

Viva Burrito, located at 66 Staniford Street, is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Closed Sunday. Call (617) 523-6390.

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