Sfoliatella

Keep your nose clean

by Julia Hanna

noshing & sipping

Dave's Fresh Pasta - October 5 600 lb. Gorillas - September 28 Kupel's bear claws - September 21 Goya cola champagne - September 14 Talk o' Texas okra pickles - September 7

This ridged, flaky pastry resembles a smaller version of the lobster tail, that North End blowout specialty gushing with custard filling. The rewards of sfoliatella, however, are more subtle. The crispy triangular wedge is filled with a mixture of yellow cream and boiled semolina and flavored throughout with hints of orange and cinnamon. And you'll find it easier to maintain an air of Continental, espresso-sipping cool when you sample this particular indulgence. The interior is moist (somewhere between cake and pudding), but you won't end up with cream on the end of your nose.

Sfoliatella sell for $1.50 each at Modern Pastry, 257 Hanover Street in Boston, (617) 523-3783, and 20 Salem Street in Medford, (781) 396-3618.

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