Party time
The wine art of celebration
by Thor Iverson
Whether it's dinner for the boss, a meal to impress visiting parents, or just a
romantic bite for two, sooner or later everyone has to host a dinner party.
Under these circumstances, most people expend a lot of energy worrying about
the food. But wine is often treated as an afterthought.
It doesn't have to be that way. Wine can be an essential part of any special
dinner; it can even be the central part. All it takes is a little basic
arithmetic and a nod in the direction of the Boy Scout motto: be prepared.
First, count up the guests. Who will be drinking wine, and how much? In the
absence of information to the contrary, at a regular meal men can usually
polish off at least half a bottle and women slightly less than that. But at
long, multi-course dinners those quantities go up, and so a better rule of
thumb is this: one bottle per guest, per three hours of dining. Adjust downward
for light drinkers, if necessary, but it's surprising how easily a group of
people having a good time can consume wine. A bottle of wine contains about
five to six standard glasses, while sparkling wine is good for about seven to
eight glasses. Finally, remember that some people tend to shy away reflexively
from both sparkling wine and sweet wine, which reduces the requisite
quantities. (And don't forget that someone will need to drive home.)
Now that you know how much wine you'll need, figure out when you'll need it.
Usually only the salad course is unfit for wine; acidic vinaigrettes wreak
havoc on just about all vinous products, though other salads are more
forgiving. In a traditional French meal (hors d'oeuvres, fish course, meat
course, salad, cheese, dessert), that's five opportunities to serve wine.
Knowing these two key facts -- how much and when -- will help you determine
whether you want a different wine for each course or just a few good bottles
for the duration. If you're planning the latter, be sure to choose relatively
versatile wines, such as Chianti Classico and Alsatian pinot gris, which have
both the intensity to work with heavy dishes and the brightness to work with
lighter preparations; impressive but ponderous wines like zinfandel or Napa
chardonnay get cranky if paired with the wrong dish.
However, with one-course/one-wine dinners, new questions arise. Is the dinner
to be based on the wines, showcasing special or thematic bottles? Or is the
food the focus, and the wines secondary? Is there one star wine with a bunch of
supporting players, or are all wines created equal?
It's important to remember that the more legendary and well-aged a wine, the
simpler the food should be. A complex Peruvian casserole is fine for simple
wine, but a well-aged Bordeaux needs something uncomplicated, like roast rack
of lamb with a mild Dijon crust. The usual guidelines about matching food
weight with wine weight should prevail: light food (such as poached halibut)
with light wine (such as pinot grigio); heavy food (such as broiled steak) with
heavy wine (such as syrah).
Furthermore, keep wine weights in mind when planning the order of service.
Sparkling wines (other than sparkling shiraz and other bubbly reds) should come
first, then dry whites (light to heavy), then dry reds (light to heavy), then
sweet wines (light to heavy, white to red, unfortified to fortified). Thus, a
typical wine line-up might look like this: Champagne, Sancerre,
gewürztraminer, Beaujolais, Brunello di Montalcino, sweet muscat, Port.
But what if you want to change that order? What if the meat dish really calls
out for a gewürztraminer (maybe it's sausages baked in a casserole with
Munster cheese), while the fish dish would be better with a red (perhaps a
seared tuna steak with roasted garlic and spiced tomatoes)? Rather than fight
the system, it's better to borrow the terrific Italian concept of the
intermezzo: serve a little sorbet, or fruit, or anything else palate-refreshing
in between the two courses. The same advice applies if you're serving a
reasonably sweet wine earlier in the meal (perhaps a sweet white with a dish
heavy in blue cheese).
Finally, it is important to have back-ups. Wines can disappoint for any number
of reasons, including corkiness, and old wines are especially prone to failure
from heat damage and simple old age. Nothing is more dismaying than opening the
star bottle and finding only stewed nastiness inside. Always have a few extra
bottles in the bullpen.
A few wines worthy of anyone's party:
Filliatreau 1996 Saumur-Champigny "La Grande Vignolle" ($16.99). Exotic
and rustic. It tastes of Hungarian peppers and black cherries, with a slightly
fungal character like that of a lichen-covered tree root in a wet forest. This
character is not at all unpleasant, and the finish is more conventionally
earthy, with a touch of rhubarb. Properly, this wine should age for the better
part of a decade, but if you're opening it now, decant it (there's already
sediment) and serve it with herbed polenta.
Navarro 1997 Gewürztraminer "Late Harvest" ($16.99). Overall, no
American producer has done more than Navarro with this highly individualistic
grape. Better than Navarro's dry version, this peach and lychee confection has
a taste like creamed honey, unctuous without being syrupy, with a bright and
long finish. Serve with spiced poached pear, with Munster, or by itself.
Mirassou "Showcase Selection" 1997 Pinot Noir "Harvest Reserve" ($30).
Very clearly a New World pinot, in that it shows a distinct blackberry-cola
character and is thickly oaked. But there's great, earthy fruit here, an
enticing hummus aroma, and a rich baked-spice flavor that makes this wine
something very tasty. Serve with gently spiced lamb.
Thor Iverson can be reached at wine[a]phx.com.
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