The Boston Phoenix
May 20 - 27, 1999

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Moutarde de Meaux

Seedy pleasure

by Theresa Regli

NOSHING & SIPPING
We've all dreamed of living a life of royalty, and for most of us, Pommery Moutarde de Meaux is the closest we'll ever get. It was reportedly developed in 1632 for the kings of France; in 1760, the ancient religious order of Meaux let the Pommery family in on the secret formula; and later, the great food writer Brillat-Savarin called it the mustard for true gourmets. This natural, whole-grain mustard is a deep yellow, with awesomely flavorful soft brown mustard seeds. Open the lid and you'll immediately smell the intense aroma of the infused distilled vinegar. An 8.8-ounce jar costs anywhere from $9 to $15 wherever fine mustard is sold, including Bread & Circus, Cardullo's, and Formaggio Kitchen, all in Cambridge.


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