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[Cheap Eats]

Real Pizza
You can’t top this.

By Ruth Tobias

on the cheap
Koreana Vici Berezka

Real Pizza means business. Occupying an inconspicuous storefront in the quiet Cambridge neighborhood of Huron Village, the take-out joint eschews ambiance — and in fact eschews furniture (there are only two tables) — to focus squarely on the pies. Granted, the no-frills approach typifies many pizzerias. That said, Real Pizza doesn’t mean business as usual. The menu belies the modest décor with an emphasis on specialty pizzas that somewhat limits the options for creating your own — perhaps to curtail pizza fakery on the part of taste-challenged customers.

Don’t take it personally. Hi-Rise Bread Company whiz Rene Becker and crew really do know what’s best. The basics shine: ripe tomato chimes with a crisply textured crust that’s just right for this Italophile; a chameleonic mozzarella takes on the flavors of its surroundings while maintaining the mouthfeel integral to the whole. On this strong theme, the variations range from the urbane Wolf 359, with red potatoes and chives, to the country-kitchenesque (or maybe just kitschy) Asteroid Belt Buster, with bacon and eggs. The Eddington Limited, however, really stands out with a rustic combination of beans, sausage, and romano that has you pining for the Old Country even if you’re from Newton. The only mild disappointments are the basil and arugula pestos, because they’re just that: mild. If you do order individual toppings, go for the gusto of deep blue Gorgonzola or thin-sliced, tender prosciutto. Size-wise, a Real Pizza is a bit awkward — at 12 inches, no longer little enough for one, but not yet big enough for two. Overall, though, the name doth not protest too much — this is the genuine article.

Real Pizza, located at 359 Huron Avenue, in Cambridge, is open Monday through Saturday from 7:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Call (617) 497-4497.

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