on the cheap

Real Pizza Koreana Vici Berezka

Photographs of Dizzy Gillespie and Louis Armstrong hang in a collage of musical artists along one wall of Blue Plate Express, welcoming customers into the efficient and appealing world of this new Arlington eatery. The Blue Plate offers down-home cooking at its very best: the chicken soup ($2.25 to $3.95) — loaded with pasta, onions, thin chunks of celery and carrots, and chunks of char-grilled chicken in a lightly dill-infused, slightly salted broth — could fill any grandmother’s prescription for good health. This version makes canned competitors cry out for help.

The six-ounce herb-grilled salmon fillet ($9.95) was fresh, and topped with a mellow dabbing of citrus-thyme butter. The caramelized balsamic chicken ($7.95), char-grilled to fork-cutting perfection, was a showstopper — its tangy glaze should be bottled and top-shelved. Most dinners come with two sides. It’s hard to pick from the 14 entrancing choices, but the heavenly roasted-garlic mashed potatoes didn’t disappoint — they were the best tasting spuds I’ve had in years. The cinnamon-infused mashed squash was also delicious. Macaroni and cheese, another side, was perfect, reminding me of my mom’s classic version.

For dessert, go for the home-baked brownies. A huge triangle-shaped treat ($1.50), loaded with walnuts, was cut from its baking pan right in front of my eyes. On one evening, when I included a brownie in my take-out order, the soft, chewy delicacy almost didn’t make it home, but I’m glad I waited for its soul mate — a glass of milk — to make it a dreamy nightcap. At least a few brownie varieties are available each day; choices include rich chocolate with dried cherries and the adult-flavored Kahlúa fudge.

On two visits, we never waited more than 10 minutes for our food from the time we gave our order. The restaurant specializes in take-out (hence the " Express " in its name), but customers who stay to eat can grab one of the few high black stools or chairs, directly facing a wall of reflective, Latin Quarter–style framed photographs under blue cable lighting. If only Dizzy and Louis could join us.