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[Cheap Eats]

Caffè Rossini
Off the beaten path
BY LISA GERSON

on the cheap
Real Pizza Koreana Vici Devlin’s Café

Somerville’s hidden treasure announced the envelope containing a handmade flier that touted the addition of pizza to the menu of Caffè Rossini. And indeed it is. Tucked away on Highland Avenue, this small storefront turns out mighty fine sandwiches, as well as homemade baked goods so tasty they make you want to weep. Oh yes, and pizza!

Sandwiches are made with the highest-quality ingredients: the Caprese ($4.25) has paper-thin prosciutto, fresh mozzarella, basil, roasted red peppers, and tomatoes; the grilled chicken ($4.75; $5.25 with chips and a soda) is cooked on applewood, and tastes absolutely divine. Pizza, served after 4 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday, and after noon on Sundays, comes with toppings ranging from sun-dried tomatoes to hot cherry peppers.

Caffè Rossini’s bright and cheerful décor features colorful geometric-print cloths on the tables, large paintings on the walls, and flowers tucked in every nook. Paper twirls and ribbons hang from the ceiling. There are only five or six tables inside (and five outside), and the people behind the counter are attentive, putting extra mozzarella on our sandwich when we didn’t want tomatoes, and scurrying over with our sodas when our arms were filled with plates. " Would you like some tabouleh or something with that? " called out a dark-haired woman — most likely the owner — from a table nearby, where she ate her own lunch.

Finally, we couldn’t resist the bounteous assortment of baked goods, including cookies-and-cream brownies ($1.75) with chunks of Oreo stuck on top; lemon-coconut-caramel bars ($1.65); and a fat-free lemon pound cake with icing ($1.65) that is simply not to be believed. Breakfast treats such as scones and bagels appeal as well, and the coffee is strong and freshly brewed.

A treasure indeed, hidden no longer.

Caffè Rossini, located at 278 Highland Avenue, in Somerville, is open Monday and Tuesday from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m., Wednesday through Saturday from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Sunday from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Call (617) 625-5240.

Issue Date: April 26-May 3, 2001