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Mama Gaia’s Café
Principled food
BY KATE COHEN

  PREVIOUS COLUMNS
El Rancho Grande Restaurant

Peace of mind isn’t technically on the menu at Central Square’s Mama Gaia’s Café; neither is enriching the community nor saving the world. But one could argue that between the colorful lines on the café’s chalkboard can be read an independent spirit that’s surely welcome in this era of cloned coffee shops.

The café mainly offers sandwiches, almost half of which are suitable for vegetarians (soy cheese can be substituted to suit vegan palates). The Roasted Veggie ($5.25) comes on grilled focaccia loaded with olive spread, filled with olive-oil-roasted vegetables, and topped with a few slices of provolone. The menu makes good use of staples such as tofu and hummus, but also has its fun with the Fantabulous ($3), which uses banana and honey to glorify organic peanut butter and jelly.

On the non-vegetarian side, the Goddess of the Sea ($5.50) livens up tuna salad with chopped parsley and onion, and the Hidden Sweetness ($5.50) combines ham, cream cheese, and sliced apple — an unusual mix. The menu also offers a handful of salads, among them the Spinach Sunrise ($4.25), which has plenty of walnuts and apple-cider vinaigrette, but is a little light on the sun-dried tomatoes.

The café is equipped with a full coffee bar, serving Dean’s Beans Organic Coffee and organic Irie teas. The service might seem a little slow compared to most sandwich joints (all items are made to order), but there’s plenty to do in the meantime, as the café has two computers in the back (Web access is provided free of charge). Read up on fair-trade practices, or ask about the shop’s many community projects: plans are in the works for a mural painting with junior-high kids, a high-school scholarship program, and an essay contest. Visit Mama Gaia’s for a sandwich, and come out with new resolve to change the world.

Mama Gaia’s Café, located at 401 Mass Ave, in Cambridge, is open Thursday through Saturday, from 7 a.m. to 1 a.m., and Sunday through Wednesday, from 7 a.m. to midnight. Call (617) 441-3999.

Issue Date: January 31-February 7, 2002
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