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Pho Lemon
A new pho in town
BY SARAH ANDREWS

  PREVIOUS COLUMNS

Lots of Vietnamese restaurants begin with the word " pho, " signifying their specialization in the meat-infused noodle soup. But the spanking-new Pho Lemon on Broadway near Kendall Square stands as an oasis among the phos for its focus on other cuisines as well.

Because Pho Lemon serves both standard and unusual Vietnamese and Chinese fare, customers can venture beyond spring rolls and wonton soup. To start, the Lemon Star ($3.95), a plateful of fried raviolis filled with a veggie mixture, is a suitably crispy pre-meal munch. For a more sophisticated appetizer, there’s chao tom ($6.95), two pieces of charbroiled shrimp paste draped on sugar cane in the shape of a starfish.

Still, despite its extensive menu, Pho Lemon stays true to its name, offering an array of traditional soups and vermicelli dishes ($5.25–$6.25). The grilled-shrimp vermicelli ($6.25) is downright comforting; throw some chilies in for added warmth. And for the more adventurous, meat-loving palate, try the pork or salmon simmered in caramel sauce ($8.50). The dish comes sizzling in a clay pot, and while the taste may overpower some diners, it’s just so good.

Pho Lemon doesn’t serve any alcohol, but it has a wide variety of juices, from coconut and orange to litchi and longan ($2.50). And for the experimental bunch, the ba mau ($2.50), meaning " tricolored, " is a mixture of red " mun " beans, a green jelly-like substance, and coconut juice. Its texture is alarming, but its sweetness and weight make for a nice liquid desert.

Pho Lemon, located at 228 Broadway, in Cambridge, is open Sunday through Thursday, from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., and on Friday and Saturday, from 11 a.m. to midnight. Call (617) 441-8813.

Issue Date: January 30 - February 6, 2003
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