If during the blustery winter weather you’ve grown tired of trendy French and New American fare, consider dining at ever-regal Grill 23. The steak-house stalwart serves up dishes that’ll fill you up and make you appreciate the beauty that your grandfather always said can be found in a superior cut of meat. For a sure-fire stick-to-your-ribs starter, order the short ribs Wellington ($14). This decadent appetizer is loosely modeled after the classic British beef Wellington, but here features braised short ribs on a bed of wild-mushroom purée. And that’s not all: the ribs are topped with a chicken-liver mousse, wrapped in the traditional puff pastry, and accented with a vegetable purée and mustard-seed oil. Best accompanied by a lively, full-bodied red wine, the dish is a buttery and savory fusion, and guarantees a clean plate that would make your mother proud. Available for $14 at Grill 23, 161 Berkeley Street, in Boston. Call 617.542.2255.
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