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In 1834, Sleeman Brewery was established in Ontario, where it flourished for more than a century. But by the 1930s, says Dan Fox, the company’s vice-president of business development, " like a lot of industrious Canadians, the Sleeman family was making an extra buck by shipping to Al Capone during Prohibition. " Sounds like a great idea. But apparently the correct palms were not greased, and Sleeman got caught. The brewery was given two options by authorities on both sides of the border: admit guilt, pay a fine, and close down, or do all of the above and go to jail. Not much of a choice, eh?

In 1988, John Sleeman resurrected the brewery of his forebears. But until now, the beer has not been available stateside. Partnering with Boston Beer Company (makers of Samuel Adams), Sleeman is making its first forays into the US, starting with Massachusetts. Lucky us.

The first thing you notice is the bottle. Where’s the label? Besides a small one on the neck (required by law), it’s not there. Just clear glass, elegantly embossed with a maple leaf, allowing light to filter through its pleasingly golden-brown contents.

Light but flavorful, with a perfect tang, Sleeman is an ideal accompaniment to meals — and works just fine by itself. Although the brewery’s cream ales and steam beers are well known in Canada, Sleeman makes Premium Lager specially for the States.

" We want to brew a beer that is different, that has some flavor to it, but is still drinkable, " says Fox, " a smooth, enjoyable beer that you can have a few of. "

I’ll drink to that.

Sleeman Premium Lager is available at Bukowski Tavern, in Boston; Doyle’s Café, in Jamaica Plain; Tir Na Nog, in Somerville; and most major package stores.