January 4 - 11, 1 9 9 6

Café Le Matin

Formerly home to an insurance agency, this Somerville space was purchased last July and reinvented with red brick, hardwood floors, and a mirrored wall. Billed as a European café (with Somervillean prices, of course), the place opened for business December 18. The menu lists baked goods (garlic bread, bruschetta, calzones) and salads (house, antipasto, Greek) made fresh each day.

The delicious spinach-and-cheese calzone ($3.50 for a quarter slice, $7.25 for a half) had a puffy exterior and a huge hunk of spinach inside. Other calzone choices: eggplant and cheese, cold cuts, and a sausage, onion, and pepper combination. The roasted vegetable or herb purée (including basil, parsley, cilantro, rosemary, and salt) focaccia makes for a light and cheap lunch at $2.75 per slice.

Among other lunch choices are the pizzettas for two ($6.25), which come with the option of tomato and cheese or sundried tomato and cheese. Or, go alone and order the Menucci pizza for one ($4.25). The all-important extra topping option (75 cents each for the Menucci or $1.25 for the pizzetta) includes artichoke hearts, zucchini, and prosciutto. A chilled pasta du jour ($4) is also available. Check out the panini sandwiches served daily, as well as the Sunday-brunch special.

While you linger in the casual, sophisticated atmosphere, consider one of Café Le Matin's international juices (from Italy and Portugal) or coffees (from Kenya and Colombia).

Café Le Matin, located at 717 Broadway in Ball Square, Somerville, is open Monday through Sunday, from 7 a.m. to midnight. Call 625-9777.

-- Marc Levy