May 9 - 16, 1 9 9 6

Salt and Pepper

About four blocks north of Davis Square on Holland Street, you'll find a string of gentrified-hipster storefronts interrupted by the cozy Salt and Pepper café and bakery. Open since September '94, Salt and Pepper has wood floors and lots of wood trim, kind of like a kitchen before the days of pre-fab.

Salt and Pepper opens at 6:30 a.m. with freshly brewed coffee and freshly baked muffins ($1.25), coffee cakes ($2.50), and biscuits ($1.25). But their best meal of the day is lunch, when the sun's up and you can sit out front. Choose between roulade (pita roll-up) sandwiches ($3.50), salads ($2 for a small, $4 for a large), and focaccia sandwiches. Although the cold roulades and salads are good for a hot day, the substantial hot plates -- including Texas chili ($2.25, $3.75), grilled chicken breast in green salsa ($3.25, $6), and veggie enchiladas ($2.50, $4.50) -- are even more enticing.

Salt and Pepper, located at 81 Holland Street, near Davis Square in Somerville, is open Monday through Saturday from 6:30 a.m. to 8 p.m., and on Sunday from 6:30 a.m. until 4 p.m. Call 666-8877.

-- Marc Levy