The other Rhônes
Two unheralded grapes make their move
by David Marglin
Every big success breeds another. In the wine world, one
recent success story has been that of syrah -- also called shiraz -- the star
red grape of
France's Rhône Valley. Syrah has been made into wonderful wines in the US
and Australia; now, in its wake, come two other red grapes from the Rhône
-- grenache and mourvèdre.
Historically, these grapes haven't received much attention on their own; in the
Southern Rhône, they've commonly been used for blending. They've also
been grown under many aliases: mourvèdre is often called "monastrell" in
Spain and "mataro" in the US and Australia; grenache goes by "tinta garnacha"
(or just "garnacha") in Spain.
These days, however, both mourvèdre and grenache are being made into
interesting and affordable wines -- lush and fruity, with big bold flavors,
especially when the vines are old and yields are kept low. The emergence of
these grapes is part of a deeper trend toward bolder, spicier, fruitier New
World wines -- and a trend among American wine drinkers of getting more
adventurous. Combine that adventuresome attitude and passion for big fruit with
the widespread desire to pay less than $25 for a bottle of wine, and
voilà! You've got the right conditions for grenache,
mourvèdre, and blends of the two to flourish.
And as they flourish, they keep getting better. D'Arenberg's "Custodian," for
example, is a deep and complex grenache wine; the Australian family that makes
it has been using grenache for several generations. The renowned Perrin family,
makers of Château de Beaucastel, one of the Rhône's premier wines,
recently released the inaugural wine from Tablas Creek, their new California
winery. The 1997 Tablas Creek Rouge is a traditional blend of grenache,
mourvèdre, and syrah; at $30, it's a little pricier than most wines made
from these varieties, but it's worth it.
Grenache and mourvèdre are not yet exactly household words for most wine
drinkers. Nor are these wines to everyone's taste. Many wine drinkers prefer
subtlety -- and these varietals are rarely accused of that. But if you yearn
for something a little different, and if you don't mind being engulfed in
fruity, spicy flavors, then you'll find any of the following wines well worth
the effort it might take to track it down. I've listed the regions of origin to
make the wines easier to find.
1998 Navarra El Chaparral de Vega Sindoa Bodegas Nekeas (Spain, $11).
What a deal! Fruit-forward, though a tad rough around the edges. Plenty of
barely ripe cherries, and a nibble of sandalwood. Serve with stew or
cassoulet.
1997 Grenache Yalumba Bush Vine Barossa 1997 (Australia, $15).
Mambo-jambo black fruit, really ripe. Almost hot. Lots to recommend this nutty
bombshell. Serve with spicy, spicy food.
1997 Domaine de L'Hortus Pic Saint Loup Languedoc (France, $15). A blend
of syrah, mourvèdre, and grenache. Bright and lively, with flavors of
cracked pepper and black fruit. A bit nutty, but what an earthy finish! A
killer value.
1997 Zaca Mesa Cuvée Z Santa Barbara County (California, $18). A
complex blend of grenache, mourvèdre, syrah, and the lesser-known
counoise and cinsaut. Tastes of cranberries and cherries, some pepper, and
herbal notes like sage. Somewhat
tannic, but will soften with
age.
1997 Ridge Mataro Bridgehead Vineyard Contra Costa County (California,
$20). Ebullient and spicy, barbed black fruit and rhubarb. Sorta thorny, a
touch of tar, but a compelling drinking wine. Not a delicate beauty; it wants
grilled meats and barbecue sauce.
1998 Jaffurs Grenache Stoldman Vineyard Central Coast (California, $20).
Light ruby color; flavors of leather, strawberry, and cranberry. A winner from
this consistently reliable producer, if somewhat thinner than expected. Think
pomegranates.
1997 Cline Small Berry Vineyard Mourvèdre Contra Costa County
(California, $22). Cline is a master of mourvèdre. Tightly wound cassis,
somewhat jumpy. Great with breaded fried fish such as sole, or fried chicken.
Medium body; bold, but not too much.
1997 Cline Mourvèdre Ancient Vines Contra Costa County
(California, $22). Less Sturm und Drang than the Small Berry Vineyard.
More balanced and rounder. Very approachable; goes well with grilled meats. A
hearty party wine.
1997 D'Arenberg "Custodian" Grenache McClaren Vale (Australia, $24).
Rhubarb, above all. Then some plum and raspberries, very sweet and sensuous.
Jammy. Bold, wild, and ready to roll. Try it with short ribs, pepper-crusted
ahi tuna, or any nice pizza. A keeper.
David Marglin can be reached at wine[a]phx.com.
The Uncorked archive