Beet surrender

Babushka's cold beet salads

by Suzanne Kammlott

noshing & sipping

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The humble beet, cultivated since pre-Christian times, is a boon to cold salads. It provides a bright yet earthy flavor, while the juice adds a shocking-pink stain to everything it touches. We tried two tasty versions at Brighton's Babushka Deli: a combination of marinated sliced herring and beets, kissed with sour cream; and a coarsely chopped mix of beets, potatoes, and carrots drizzled with oil and vinegar. Both are available for $3.99 a pound at Babushka Deli, 62 Washington Street, in Brighton. Call (617) 731-9739.

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