Palenque

Mexican goodies, the sequel

by John Buntin

on the cheap

Irish Embassy, March 16 Bamboo, March 9 Restaurante da Tia, March 2

The new Palenque in Central Square has none of the charm of the original Palenque and very little of its menu. The original, on Beacon Street in Somerville, is a neighborhood restaurant with dinner service and excellent mole sauces; this one, despite a smattering of tables and chairs, is more of a storefront take-out.

Steer clear of the boring burritos ($4.95 small, $5.95 large) and the bland enchiladas ($6.50), and instead try the Mexican-style appetizers (all $3.50). Order "molletes," and a few minutes later two crusty sandwich rolls topped with mashed beans, grated cheese, lettuce, and tomatoes appear on the counter -- a dish that in Mexico is often served with coffee and juice for breakfast. Tamales ($3) come in three varieties: pork, chicken, and vegetable. Palenque's tamales can't compare to fresh homemade Mexican tamales, but the pork version, with its combination of slightly sweet shredded pork and crunchy cornmeal, is nevertheless a pleasure. The chilaquiles ($3.50) -- a platter of nacho chips piled high with diced lettuce and tomatoes, cheese, and shredded chicken, dressed with a light salsa verde -- are particularly good. With a delicious, icy guava fresca in hand, a Spanish radio station blaring in the background, and an order of chilaquiles on the table, the late-March chilliness starts to warm right up.

Palenque, located at 596 Mass Ave (Central Square), in Cambridge, is open Monday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Call (617) 349-1170.

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