Andale Mexican Grill

Mexican food with Salvadoran flair

by Tatsu Ikeda

on the cheap

Yely's Coffee Shop, May 18 Taquería La Mexicana, May 11 New York Soup Exchange, May 4 Fasika, April 20

Finding Mexican food with real flair is a problem. Where's the Latin romance in rapid-fire burrito slinging? Andale Mexican Grill, located in Somerville's Magoun Square, keeps it real, Salvadoran-style. The family-owned taquería has steadily built a reputation with locals and Tufts students alike; it won us over with interesting reinterpretations of Mexican stand-bys, and with its high-quality ingredients -- no pre-prepared meat and veggies indelicately dumped onto steam tables.

We recommend the revelationary papa, or mashed-potato, burrito ($3.95 small, $4.95 large). A friend loved the "bisteck sincronizada" ($6.95 small, $7.95 huge), which resembles a Fenway-size quesadilla filled with steak. Normal quesadillas are also on the menu ($1.95/$2.95). The salsa is charmingly rustic, with chips made on the premises. The guacamole? The most disarmingly original in recent memory, with strips of green onion.

Andale also serves several Salvadoran specialties, including pupusas, and one-ups the competition with three dessert choices. Despite very modest décor, diners eat with real flatware and china, a nice touch. To drink, there's horchata ($1.50), a rice-based drink with overtones of cinnamon and coffee. True to the name, service is quick, and if Magoun Square seems a bit far, keep in mind that Andale is open till midnight.

Andale Mexican Grill, located at 513 Medford Street, in Somerville, is open daily from 11 a.m. to midnight. Call (617) 625-5454.

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