Vanille

L'éclair, c'est moi

by Jessika Bella Mura

on the cheap

Joe's Café, June 22 Pita Kabob, June 15 Viva Burrito, June 8 Wok 'N Roll, June 1

We have the likes of Iggy's and Hi-Rise and Dancing Deer to thank for a local
renaissance in artisanal baking, but for flat-out artistry there's Vanille, a patisserie on Beacon Hill's main drag. Bruno Biagianti, the publicity-shy maestro on the third shift, was born and trained in France, and was formerly the executive pastry chef at the Ritz-Carlton, Boston. Working through the
night with a partner, he orchestrates the output of meringues, éclairs, tarts, cookies, and -- most important -- show-stopping petits fours. The full-scale cakes and glazed fruit tarts are gorgeous, although with some priced at more than $20, they aren't exactly for everyday eating. But the doll-sized renditions, at about a buck a pop, make indulgence easy.

Vanille's genial staff also dispenses pâtés, quiches, and cheeses, as well as a streamlined selection of sandwiches. A snap decision about roast beef, smoked turkey, Danish ham, or tuna salad on croissant ($3.95), small baguette ($4.95), or medium baguette ($5.95) leaves the mind free to contemplate some of life's bigger questions. Like, raspberry-jam-on-chocolate-mousse cake or mini Boston cream pie?

Vanille, located at 70 Charles Street, in Boston, is open Monday through Friday from 5:45 a.m. to 7 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Call (617) 523-9200.

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