'Cueing up

Saturday grilling at Formaggio

by Nancy Kalajian

noshing & sipping

Miscellaneous meat sandwich, July 6 Creamsicle dreamin', June 29 Forbidden Rice, June 22 El Pelón salsa, June 15

Weekdays, Dave Welch is the mild-mannered produce buyer for Formaggio Kitchen, the West Cambridge foodie mecca. But on summer Saturdays, weather permitting, he turns into a Weber wizard, happily grilling up a storm in front of the store. Welch marinates ribs and chicken in a magically intoxicating sauce made according to a secret recipe (he hesitatingly divulges that it includes tomato and spices); he says he created the sauce one day when he was lonely. Not a problem on Saturdays: he seems to be making friends with his steaming hot, tender pork ribs ($20 for a rack, $10 for a half-rack, $5 for a quarter). The line-up varies from week to week, but you can often find chicken ($14 for an unsplit breast, $7 for a half), grilled veggies ($10 large, $5 small) or collard greens, and scrumptious pulled pork ($5 for a small container). Dave Welch grills on fair Saturdays from noon to 5:30 p.m. at Formaggio Kitchen, 244 Huron Avenue, Cambridge. Call (617) 354-4750.

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