Rhône
ranger
A round-up of wines from a "vintage of the century"
by David Marglin
Every now and then, everything comes together for a winemaking region, and it
can declare (or at least have wine writers declare) that it has produced the
"vintage of the century." It happened for Long Island in 1997 (granted, its
"century" started in the 1970s) and it happened for France's southern
Rhône in 1998. So why has it taken two years to notice? As you may know,
most wine is meant to be consumed instantly, but big Rhône wines usually
need at least three to four years of bottle aging before they open up: the
stellar '98s are just becoming drinkable now.
Wines have been made in the Rhône Valley for two millennia, but for many
years they had little prestige. No mention of them survives from the Middle
Ages, and even when the pope moved to the Rhône city of Avignon during
the Renaissance, not much was written about the region's fabulous wines
(although the popes liked them, and their palace gave rise to the
Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation). From the 14th to the 16th centuries,
Rhône wines were unavailable in Paris or England, where upper-class
tastes were formed, because the duchy of Burgundy, fearing competition, barred
their transit by river through the Burgundian lands.
By the 18th and 19th centuries, Rhône wines were the toast of Paris, so
to speak: sometime Parisian Thomas Jefferson was a fan. But they wouldn't
become popular on these shores until almost 100 years later when, in the 1980s,
they were hailed by critics and writers -- including, bien sur, Robert
Parker. Parker did not create the Rhône revival single-handedly, but his
considerable weight went far to focus serious wine collectors' attention on
these often overlooked wines. And where the big money goes, smaller money is
soon to follow.
And now Rhônes -- southern Rhônes in particular -- are in vogue
again, thanks to 1998. Southern Rhônes are almost always a big
mélange of grapes, mainly grenache and mourvèdre (originally of
Spanish origin), as well as syrah, carignane, cinsault, and others. They tend
to be less spicy and more fruity and jammy than their northern Rhône
counterparts. They also tend to be less oaky, since use of new oak is frowned
upon in the southern Rhône. This makes them approachable when young, but
unless they are properly acidic, the fruit can quickly get out of whack (or it
can taste cooked).
Three main factors determine whether a vintage is going to be the best of 100
years or just one of the less-celebrated 99: weather, timing, and, of course,
press.
In 1998, the weather in southern France was stellar for grapes. There was a
late frost in mid-April, which diminished yields significantly. Then the summer
was unusually hot and dry -- although not too hot and dry -- which
stressed the vines, producing better fruit. The beginning of September featured
the perfect amount of rain -- enough to ripen the grapes and fill out the
fruit, not enough to bloat them and thin the flavors). Then harvest conditions
were dry and perfect.
The 1998 southern Rhônes also benefited from good timing. When great
years stack up, the later years are harder to sell, since the marketers want to
push what's ready. But when the pent-up demand caused by a dearth of great
years combines with dramatically improved winemaking techniques, you can move a
lot of wine. This happened in the Rhône Valley. It had two great years in
1989 and 1990, and then a span of mediocre ones. During that time, winemaking
techniques vastly improved. The growers stopped going all out for big yields,
and instead started trying to provide the best fruit possible. The resulting
wines taste smoother and more balanced.
Finally, thanks to the great press garnered by the 1989 and 1990 vintages, the
world has awakened to the keen pleasures of these wines. Knowledgeable
consumers demand a better product, but they also want the confidence that they
are drinking what folks in the wine industry like. Writers, retailers, and
sommeliers help create demand via a trickle-down effect.
For all these reasons, chances are that if you walk into a decent wine store
and walk out with a 1998 southern Rhône, you're going to have a pretty
good bottle in your hands. In all the wines I tried, you taste the earth. They
offer interesting flavors; they are for the most part well-made; they offer a
just-right balance of acid and fruit; and they have the hallmarks of wines that
will age well. Like the current Yankees, these potential dynasty wines can't
miss.
Here are a range of '98 southern Rhônes for your consuming pleasure:
1998 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Parallèle "45" Côtes du
Rhône ($8.99). This is a baseline standard: a super-fruity bomb, well
composed, and poised. It wins with your roast meats (where southern
Rhônes really meet the road). This will unfurl in your glass.
1998 La Font d'Estévenas Cairanne Côtes du Rhône
Villages ($9.99). An advanced-class wine, quite complex. A powerhouse for
the price, and a warrior -- not for the meek. Cheeky, funky, plenty of punch,
with licorice on the nose followed by gobs of pepper, spice, and stewed fruits.
Great with big beef or spicy curries. Will benefit from age.
1998 Domaine de Montvac Vacqueyras ($11.99). Fab and fruity, full of
affect, but so "on" for the price that you will forgive its excesses. Very
tasty with a spicy chicken sandwich or cajun catfish.
1998 Le Clos du Caillou Bouquet des Garrigues Côtes du Rhône
(about $15). Very tasty, bold, rich, and fruity. It has fleshy plum, hints of
currants, dashes of leather, and an edge of pine. Like most southern
Rhônes, this is unfiltered, and packs the usual fruit wallop. Goes with
sharp cheese, paella, or spicy sausage.
1998 Domaine des Relagnes Châteauneuf-du-Pape ($23.99). Juicy and
enticing, like a siren singing from the rim of your glass. Some may find it a
bit too ripe. This is for your T-bone and your roasts, such as turkey, chicken,
or anything smoky -- even, dare I say, barbecued ribs.
1998 Domaine de Cassan Gigondas ($24.99). Expensive, but worth the cake.
It's 70 percent grenache, but a quarter syrah and a dash of mourvèdre
put a lot of meat on its ample bones. Great fruit makes it another excellent
companion for your spicy ribs or cajun chicken.
David Marglin can be reached at wine[a]phx.com.
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