Turkish delight

Anadolu Kebab House

by Elisabeth Townsend

on the cheap

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When you step off Cambridge Street into Anadolu Kebab House, you're not entering Suleiman the Magnificent's kitchen with six domes and a thousand cooks. Instead, you'll find yourself in a plain 14-table eatery dedicated to Turkish food.

Turkish-born chef/owner Murat Firidin sets the scene with Turkish TV, music, and handicrafts. Despite his efforts, the ambiance leaves something to be desired, but if you're looking for large servings of homemade food with unusual, complex flavor combinations, this is the place to find it.

For starters, try the mucver ($6.50) -- light, crunchy zucchini fritters drizzled with a yogurt-garlic sauce, served with Turkish bread and a tangy coban, or shepherd's salad of crisp cucumber, freshly chopped tomato, parsley, and onions. Or share a sampler plate ($9.50): you can choose four from a selection of 11 appetizers such as hummus ($6) and baba ghanoosh ($6). As for the restaurant's featured dish, fairly typical are the kuzu lamb kebab ($11.50) and the tavuk chicken kebab ($10.50), which are marinated in Middle Eastern spices and tomato sauce, and then charcoal-grilled. If you're really hungry and not sure which of the 10 kebabs to choose, the mixed-kebab plate ($13.50) offers variety.

The traditional Turkish desserts are cheap and good, especially the baklava ($1.25) -- perfect with a cup of tea served traditionally in a glass. If you close your eyes, the sounds and flavors of Anadolu Kebab House may just transport you to the exotic streets of Ankara.

Anadolu Kebab House, located at 303 Cambridge Street, in Boston, is open Sunday through Wednesday from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Thursday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Call (617) 557-0900.

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