Rustica

Right in the heart of Belmont Center is a cheerful and comfortable Mediterranean eatery serving savory food to the budget-conscious diner. Lunch combos -- for instance, half a sandwich with a cup of homemade yellow-pepper gazpacho and mesclun side salad -- cost under $5.50. The diverse lunch menu includes pizzas, pastas, and roasted-chicken dishes. Whatever you do, don't miss Rustica's signature crisped saffron-risotto cakes ($5.75, or $1.95 for a single cake on the bargain-filled Rusti-kids menu). The patty, which is sautéed on one side and brick-oven-baked on the other, is then drizzled with an onion sauce and Parmigiano Reggiano shavings, and served atop a roasted plum tomato. The spectacular tiramisú ($ 5.50) is made by Sandio, one of the restaurant's waiters, who follows his mom's original recipe.

Rustica, located at 30 Leonard Street in Belmont, is open Tuesday through Thursday from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Take-out is available. Call 489-6333.

-- Nancy Kalajian