The Village Grill & Seafood

Next to the counter of this neighborhood eatery hangs a plaque that reads: "If we don't take care of our customers, someone else will." Given the remoteness of the place, the plaque might more appropriately read, "no one else will." Undaunted, the proprietors offer clearly homemade starters and desserts that belie the Village Grill's pizza-joint disguise.

For lunch or dinner, start with the spanakopita ($1), a traditional Greek pastry filled with spinach, ricotta, and egg, and end with the sweet baklava ($1). In between, choose from an impressive array of Greek and Italian entrees: the spaghetti with eggplant ($4.75) is exceptional, with lots of fresh eggplant and tomato. There are also sandwiches ($2.50 to $4.75), steak and fresh seafood ($3.50 to $11.50), fried chicken ($3.75 to $6.75), spaghetti and ravioli dinners ($4 to $5.75), gyros and souvlaki ($4.75 to $6.50), and, of course, for the traditionalists, pizza and calzones ($3.95 to $11.95). Plus, a slew of inexpensive breakfast offerings.

The Village Grill & Seafood, at 114 Magazine Street, in Cambridge, is open daily from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. for counter service and takeout. Call (617) 876-0406.

-- Julie Bresnick