Paramount Deli-Restaurant

The old Paramount Deli was the last place on Beacon Hill where you could get char-grilled hamburgers as flat as coasters, wrapped in wax paper and accompanied by a half-sour pickle. But despite the wonderful shish kebab and the greasy-spoon charm (you could easily imagine John Belushi behind the counter, bellowing, "Cheeseburger, cheeseburger!") the restaurant had been slipping in recent years. We were glad to see a new owner, a new look, and a new menu. The hamburgers are still there, slightly larger, leaner, and pricier ($4.75), along with a generous Greek salad ($6.25). Breakfast is still served, as it should be, from 7 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., with an assortment of old-fashioned omelets ($3.95 to $4.25) and stacked buttermilk pancakes ($4.50, with three strips of crispy bacon). Despite the fresh flowers and the American Express logo in the window, the Paramount hasn't lost its soul.

The Paramount Deli-Restaurant, located at 44 Charles Street (Beacon Hill), in Boston, is open daily from 7 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., and for dinner (with table service) from 5:30 to 11 p.m. Call 720-1152.

-- Sarah Lydon