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Crème fraîche

Used as the base for many of the rich, creamy sauces in French cooking, crème fraîche is indispensable for the true Francophile chef. This slightly tangy, matured dairy product has the consistency of sour cream. Until recently it was scarcely available locally -- and was usually expensive when you could find it. But now the Vermont Butter and Cheese Company is making its own pasteurized version of crème fraîche, which is inexpensive and tastes quite authentic. Sauté it with a few shallots and some dry white wine for a delicious all-purpose sauce, or call the number on the container for more recipes. An eight-ounce container costs $3.29 at the Allston Star Market or Deluca's Market on Newbury Street.

-- Theresa Regli