Naha Café

The Japanese, who individually wrap each piece of cake at weddings, are known for the care they take in packaging and presenting food. And true to tradition, Naha Café, a recently opened inexpensive Japanese eatery near the Fenway, displays food with artistry. The combo dishes, which come in subdivided box-like platters, look particularly splendid.

But this food isn't just pretty; it's also pleasing to the palate. Luncheon specials ($5.95 to $6.95) include pungent beef teriyaki, grilled tuna on skewers, freshwater eel glazed with sweetened soy sauce, and grilled salmon. All lunches are served with white rice and a side salad.

Tako su ($5), an appetizer of octopus and cucumber in vinegar sauce, makes a wonderful starter, as does the Naha isobe age ($5.95), a mixture of hirame (a Japanese whitefish), flying-fish roe, and avocado that's flavored with sake, wrapped in seaweed, dipped in tempura batter, and deep-fried. Noodle dishes ($4.95 to $6.95) are plentiful and flavorful. For dessert, try the ginger, green tea, or coconut ice cream ($1.95).

Naha Café, located at 90 Peterborough Street, in Boston, is open daily from noon to 3 p.m. and from 5 to 10 p.m. Call 536-6688.

-- Theresa Regli