Sacré bleu (cheese)

Bleu d'Auvergne

My mother, a French teacher, was studying in Auvergne, a region in south-central France, and attended a dinner at a local château. When the cheese tray was brought around, she saw a blue cheese and asked for du Roquefort. An audible gasp emanated from her fellow diners, and one haughtily commented: "That's not a Roquefort, madame, it's a Bleu d'Auvergne!"

Needless to say, that's a mistake she hasn't made since, and now you won't either. Compared to Roquefort, its super-intense and crumbly relative, Bleu d'Auvergne has a creamier texture and a more subtle, rustic flavor. The version by Auvermont, an excellent producer of this cheese, is available $6.99 per pound at Barsamian's, 1030 Mass Ave, in Cambridge. Call 661-9300.

-- Theresa Regli