Canestaro

The sole business along a lovely stretch of Peterborough Street, Canestaro Pizzeria has an off-the-beaten-track feel that's hard to find in a city. The atmosphere is warm and colorful, and the air has the garlicky smell of an authentic Italian trattoria.

The 11 pasta entrees ($6.50 to $9.25), some gems among them, include the creamy but light Abruzzi verde -- a simple combination of chicken and mushrooms over linguini, topped with a soothing pesto cream sauce. The gnocchi basilico -- a choice of potato or spinach-and-ricotta gnocchi, tossed with a basil marinara sauce -- is perfect for a light but filling summer meal.

Pizzas ($6.95 to $8.95) are topped with still-crispy vegetables, or with meat options that include ham, meatballs, prosciutto, pepperoni, and sausage. Those same ingredients can be incorporated into made-to-order calzones ($6.95; 95 cents per filling).

Salads ($4.95 to $6.95) are big and fresh; most come with a spicy vinaigrette that's heavy on the balsamic vinegar. Sandwiches ($4.95 to $5.50) are perfect for take-out, and side orders (75 cents to $6.50) include crispy garlic bread with mozzarella. For dessert, have some cappuccino ($2.50) with a cannoli ($2.95) or a piece of tiramisú ($3.50).

Canestaro Pizzeria, located at 16 Peterborough Street, in Boston, is open daily from 11 a.m. to midnight. Call 266-8997.

-- Theresa Regli