Mellow out

1993 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Cetamura

There are plenty of mediocre Chiantis sitting in bargain bins, but this isn't one of them. Made by the famous de' Medici family, the 1993 Cetamura isn't a monster built for long aging, nor is it the typical watered-down under-$10 Chianti. The wine introduces itself with earthy, gamy scents, but air it out for an hour and you'll notice fruit aromas -- cooked cherries and the faintest hint of raspberries. This isn't a wine to match with strongly flavored cuisine; it needs lighter pastas, baked vegetables, or simple meats (game, or even poultry) to bring out its subtle flavors. A bottle sells for $8.95 at Brookline Liquor Mart, in Brighton.

-- Thor Iverson