A red for summer

1994 Ambra Carmignano

Red wines from Italy are noted for their high acidity (which is why they pair so well with tomato-based sauces), but here's one that plays against type. With strong tannins but mild acidity, this excellent wine actually evokes Cornas (in the Rhône) more than Tuscany. An overwhelming impression of smokiness makes it an excellent match with grilled, smoked, and barbecued dishes, and it has the complexity to stand up to rich Mediterranean herbs. Pick it up for $16.49 at Martignetti Liquors, 1650 Soldiers Field Road, in Brighton.

-- Thor Iverson