The big fromage

Roquefort Papillon

If all the cheeses in the world had a party, Roquefort would be the center of attention. Arguably the most intensely flavored cheese of them all, Roquefort has a profound aroma, deep blue-green veins, and an unparalleled complexity of taste. My favorite brand of Roquefort, le Papillon, only recently appeared in stores on this side of the Atlantic. Serve it after a few hours at room temperature to let the flavor bloom. It sells at for $13.49 a pound at Brookline Liquor Mart, and for $15.99 a pound at Bread & Circus. Bread & Circus sells wedges for about $5 each, and the cheese can also be cut to order.

-- Theresa Regli