No place like Rhône

1995 Guigal Côtes-du-Rhône blanc

by Thor Iverson

Inexpensive French wine is a rarity these days, but one of the most famous producers in the Rhône Valley, E. Guigal, has crafted a white Côtes-du-Rhône that is an outstanding value. Incorporating elements from all the varied white wines of the Rhône (including Hermitage blanc and the otherworldly Condrieu), it calls to mind apples, oranges, and summer flowers, and it takes a distinct slate character from the soil. Pair it with richly sauced poultry, pork, and veal, or with creamy fish preparations and bisques. Best of all, it's only $9.95 at the Brookline Liquor Mart, 1354 Comm Ave, Allston. (The red and rosé Guigal Côtes-du-Rhône are also excellent values.)