Iberian husky

1991 José Maria da Fonseca Terras Altas

by Thor Iverson

Portugal's best-known vinous export is decadently sweet port, and except for the ubiquitous summer quaff vinho verde, few of its table wines are known on this side of the Atlantic. This is slowly changing, and J.M. da Fonseca (no relation to the well-known port producer Fonseca) is leading the way. Remarkably inexpensive ($5.99 at Martignetti Liquors, 1650 Soldiers Field Road, in Brighton), this deeply colored red smells and tastes something like a dry port. The huge explosion of blueberries, sour apples, and black cherries (with a hint of chocolate) mellows after a little airing -- but with a wine this tasty, who can wait? Serve it with red meat, grilled food, and moderately spiced tapas.