Draw a blanc

1995 Célestin Blondeau Pouilly-Fumé Les Rabichottes

by Thor Iverson

"Buttery" chardonnay may be incredibly popular, but its dirty little secret is that it doesn't go very well with food. Sauvignon blanc (made by capable hands) doesn't have that problem, and here's a white wine from France's Loire Valley that proves it. Hailing from the Pouilly-Fumé appellation, it smells and tastes of apples, pears, and citrus zest, and it takes a "stony" quality from the Loire's unique soil. The relatively high acidity means it can stand up to more acidic foods (tomatoes, onions) than chardonnay can, but it does even better at cutting through those creamy French sauces. It's $13.95 at Brookline Liquor Mart, 1354 Comm Ave, in Allston.