Ruby's Café

Rock around the clock

On the Cheap by Alison Cicchetti

There's a lot to like about Ruby's Café, a family-owned diner on lower Cambridge Street, in Beacon Hill. The familiar faces of locals at surrounding tables mingle with the faces of Hollywood (Clint, Marilyn, Humphrey) on the walls. And there's the knowledge that if you need blueberry pancakes at 3 a.m., Ruby's can satisfy the craving. Though the round-the-clock hours are limited to Thursday through Saturday, breakfast is served all day, every day, in addition to daily specials and lunch and dinner items for those with more traditional eating habits. Weekend mornings draw a consistent crowd, but don't expect to be rushed: you'll have plenty of time to ponder the intriguing Pussywillow ($4.50) and Dandelion ($3.25), both standard variations on the theme of eggs and home fries, or the list of 15 omelets ($4.50 to $6.25). At suppertime, expect a quieter crowd, more attentive service, and a good deal on a club sandwich ($5.25) or a burger ($3.75 to $5.95). The best thing about Ruby's, however, may be that this place somehow makes it impossible to feel guilty, fiscally or physically, for eating fried mozzarella sticks ($2.95) and a pastrami and Swiss sandwich ($5.25) for dinner.

Ruby's Café, located at 280 Cambridge Street, in Boston, is open from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, and 24 hours Thursday through Saturday. Call (617) 367-3224.

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