True stories

Where the wine things are in '98

Uncorked by David Marglin

As we start 1998, there are three major stories in the world of wine. The first of these I'll cover only briefly: the incredible rising cost of high-end wine. Mainly I mean the great chateaux of Bordeaux and the premium red and white wines from Burgundy, whose prices have gone through the roof. For example, the "futures" prices of 1996 Bordeaux are triple (!) those of the superior 1995 vintage. (Futures are wines you buy while they're still in the barrels, before bottling; it's a bit like betting on how the Pats will do at the beginning of the season.) A case of 1982 Mouton-Rothschild -- which could have been bought as a future in 1983 for $550 -- now sells for more than $7000. And the futures price for a case of the far-less-exceptional 1996 Chateau Latour right now is an even $3000. Yikes!

More examples of the exorbitant prices people are paying at auction for the best wines: a magnum (a double-sized bottle) of Chateau Pétrus 1970 can be had for $2000. Top burgundies from good years go for upwards of $100 a bottle. In short, the wine world has gone a little crazy; the wine writer Robert Parker attributes this phenomenon to increased demand from Russia and the Far East. The result is that at the top of the market, single bottles can cost more than hotel rooms or intercontinental plane fares. To paraphrase Marie Antoinette, I say: let those rich folk drink their cake.

Story number two is at the other end of the spectrum: the rise of inexpensive wines from around the world to compete with killer American wines. I've talked about some aspects of this trend in previous columns -- the awesome revitalization of Spanish winemaking, the increasing dominance of mass-produced Australian wines -- and over the coming months I will look at the wines of Chile and Argentina, South Africa (which finally relaxed its strict import laws enough to let in some decent vines, so that new grape varietals could be grown), and even Italy, which has discovered the benefits of seeking lower yields from its vines. (Lower yields mean less fruit, which means better fruit, which means better wine -- and higher profits.)

The result of this global improvement is that much decent wine is being made for less than 10 bucks a bottle, and plenty of really good wine for less than $20, and lots of great wine, from all over the world, for less than $30. Our mission has been to bring some of these wines to your attention, so you can share our pleasure in them.

But the third story is the one I'll be focusing on this week and over my next few columns: the fact that West Coast wines now set the standard for quality throughout the world. Once France had that honor, and California tried to compete on the strength of its top dogs. But since 1985 (some would go back to the Paris Wine Competition of 1976, which pitted California cabs and chards against their French counterparts, with the California wines basically surpassing the French), the best wines for the dollar have come from California and, more recently, from Oregon and Washington.

Over the next few weeks we will visit Napa, the land of the monster cabs and merlots, where the weather seems practically perfect, and we will drift over to Sonoma, where the rougher conditions and smaller wineries are starting to yield awesome pinot noirs and bodacious red zins. We'll go south to Monterey, where some splendid chardonnays are made, and then to Santa Barbara, which is finally gaining the recognition it deserves for producing some of the finest wines anywhere. Then we will head north to Oregon -- land of the dynamic pinot noirs -- and Washington, where the merlots and cabs are starting to come into their own.

For now, here are some previews. Enjoy!

** 1995 Guenoc California Cabernet Sauvignon ($12.95, Merchants, Boston)

Young and fruity, with loads of cherry and spice. Air this blend out a little. I think it will improve with age. Mainly cabernet sauvignon, but with the traditional bits of merlot, cab franc, petit verdot, and malbec tossed in to make a true Bordeaux blend (what other wineries call a Meritage wine).

*** 1995 Tualatin Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon ($14.95, Merchants, Bauer, Wine Cellars of Silene)

For the money, you cannot get a more balanced pinot noir. Though not as fruity as many Oregon pinots, this one has gumption. Beware the sediment on top, and let this bad boy breathe for a while in your glass before drinking. Lovely violet bouquet.

*** 1994 Purple Mountain Chardonnay, Monterey ($14.99, Marty's, Merchants)

A majestic chardonnay, with loads of ripe pear fruit, only slight oak, a lean taste, clean crisp flavor, and a gentle finish,. This is just gorgeous wine for the money. Buy.

*** 1994 Rabbit Ridge San Lorenzo Reserve Zinfandel ($21.99, the Wine Cask)

I know, you know, everybody knows zin is in. This fruity specimen attacks with blackberry and cassis up front, but the fruit has softened nicely with age. Made from 100-year-old vines, this wine epitomizes Sonoma.

*** 1996 Andrew Murray Vineyards Roussanne, Santa Barbara ($27.99, coming soon to Bauer and Merchants, and also available at Biba -- look around for it)

Listen here: Roussanne, a Rhône varietal, makes for a truly awesome white wine. This baby is round and voluptuous, with a light sylvan quality, full-on peach flavor, and a delightful hint of nutmeg scent. Taste the peach. And serve cold.

David Marglin can be reached at wine[a]phx.com.

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