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Morning glory muffins

Noshing & Sipping by Rob McKeown

Just because every local diner and deli makes morning glory muffins doesn't mean they're easy to pull off. Truth be told, these top-hatted creations of carrot, bran, and raisin rely on a tenuous balance of ingredients -- too much carrot and they're too stringy, too much bran and they're too crumbly, too many raisins and they're too chunky. Salt & Pepper Café, in Davis Square, pulls off this balancing act with panache. The resulting muffin is moist and earthy, sweet and wholesome. They're $1.50 at Salt & Pepper Café, 81 Holland Street, Somerville, (617) 666-1376.

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