Güldies

Rolling out of bed and into line in JP

On the Cheap by Liz Zack

There's no sign on the awning above the door, and if you try to find Güldies in the phone book -- well, it's unlisted. You'll know the place by the line that winds down the Centre Street sidewalk every Sunday morning. This elusive Jamaica Plain eatery is perfect for brunch lovers, and by 10:30 a.m. it's packed. Some people sit and read the paper by themselves; at other tables, couples in sweatpants whisper about their Saturday night over coffee and hash browns.

Bob, the host, has been at Güldies since it opened, and constantly apprises you of your progress through the waiting list. When your table is ready, he leads you swiftly from the sidewalk into a long coral-colored room adorned with black-and-white photos of yesteryear JP. If you don't mind waiting a little longer, request a sun-drenched table in the back.

Then begins the eating. French toast ($4.59) buries thick slices of cinnamon bread in a shower of shaved almonds and powdered sugar. Omelets come any way you like them. We sampled one with tomato, spinach, and kielbasa; it was packed with goods, thick and delicious, for $6.99. A word of warning: when Güldies gets busy the service can be slow, so bring a paper or a sociable brunch partner and don't be afraid to request things many times.

Güldies, located at 711 Centre Street, in Jamaica Plain, is open Monday through Friday from 7:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday from 7:30 a.m. to 4 or 5 p.m., depending on the crowd. Call (617) 983-3137.

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