By the book

Raise your knowledge while raising your glass

Uncorked by David Marglin

Plenty of people ask me, "What makes you a wine writer?" The most important thing, of course, is drinking -- lots of different wines, in lots of different settings, with lots of different people. As the great winemaker and writer Alexis Lichine (author of the influential Wines of France, first published in 1951) used to say, "There's no substitute for popping corks."

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But to get a really broad understanding about the vast world of wine, you need to read. If you already read a lot about wine (and hey, here you are), then some of these books may interest you. If you don't, then maybe now is the time to get started. And one of the beautiful things about wine is how much there is to learn.

My favorite wine writer is an Englishman, Oz Clarke, who is in his spare time (and wine writers tend to lead dual lives) an actor and singer. Clarke publishes a yearly wine guide, The Essential Wine Book (Fireside, 1998, $21), which gives sage advice about what's available now and how much it costs. Oz -- I don't know him, but I feel as though I do -- has two other important books on the market. Both are out of print, but you can find them through used-book sellers. The first, Oz Clarke's Encyclopedia of Wine (Simon and Schuster, 1993, $35), is a comprehensive and user-friendly resource. It's bold, packed with useful information, and unabashedly subjective. (An entry might begin, "This is the best red wine of the Loire Valley.") It covers the world, and to me, it is essential. Less essential, but perhaps more fascinating, is Oz Clarke's New Classic Wines (Simon and Schuster, 1991, $30), an in-depth look at 69 wineries (and one region), most from America and the antipodean lands of Australia and New Zealand. It features interviews, commentary, and wonderful anecdotes: in short, it's about the people who make wine.

One writer who used to have a similar focus is the New York Times' Frank J. Prial, sort of the deacon of American wine writers -- only Robert M. Parker Jr. is more influential. An out-of-print book, Wine Talk (a collection of his "Wine Talk" columns from the '70s; it was published in 1978 by Times Books), is all about people who make great wine. Although I still try to read Prial's column in the Times every week, it is a shadow of its former brilliance, so if you ever see this book, throw down the cash to own it.

The true guru nowadays, and the most influential wine person on the planet, is Parker. His ratings send wine prices soaring, and it was he who first made the call that 1982 might be one of the greatest years ever in Bordeaux. If Parker gives a wine 90-plus points, then it will sell. The man likes his wines massive and fruity; Parker, many believe, single-handedly instigated the renaissance of Rhône-valley wines (and varietals), leading to the worldwide thirst for syrah, mourvedre, petite syrah (not technically of the Rhône, but in the family, so to speak), and their respective blends. Parker has two important books on the shelves (in addition to his own magazine, the Wine Advocate, and his columns for Food & Wine magazine). The first, simply titled Bordeaux (Simon and Schuster, 3rd ed., 1998, $50), is basically the Bordeaux-lovers' Bible. It has his ratings, as well as his notes and anecdotes, about wines produced from 1961 to 1997 -- and if you like Bordeaux (or drink a lot of it), you can't live without this book. Parker's other tome is Parker's Wine Buyer's Guide (Fireside, 4th ed., 1995, $25), which rates and describes wines from all over the world. Parker is consistent and knowledgeable, and if you like his taste for the bold and fruity, then you will want this book to benchmark the better wines you drink.

One unusual book that makes a great gift is by Ralph Steadman, famed for illustrating Hunter S. Thompson books and Bonny Doon labels. The Grapes of Ralph: Wine According to Ralph Steadman (Harcourt Brace, 1996, $35) features his rantings and incredible illustrations. It's sort of the Playboy of wine books: you buy it for the pictures, but heck, the text is worth reading, too.

Easily the most influential antipodean wine writer is James Halliday, who both makes wines and writes about them. He is the Robert Mondavi of his region, an indefatigable champion who did more to raise awareness about the virtues of these incredible wines than anyone else. His Wine Companion, 1999: Australia & New Zealand (HarperCollins, 1998, $16.95) covers practically every winery in those countries.

Some books give you a real wine education: Mastering Wine, by Tom Maresca (Grove Press, 1992, $12.95), takes you through a number of wine flights (i.e., several wines tasted together). Though many of the wines aren't available, the point is more to learn from the comparisons and counterpoints than to re-create the exact tastings. There's also Wine for Dummies (and its cousins Red Wine for Dummies and White Wine for Dummies, all published by IDG Books Worldwide and available for less than $20) -- fairly basic, but enjoyable and educational.

By far the easiest wine-buying companion is the Wine Spectator's Ultimate Guide to Buying Wine (Running Press). The 1998 version in softcover sells for $27.95 and includes the broadest selection of wines and an easy-to-follow rating system (if you trust it). Also good is California Wine (Running Press, 1996, $39.95), by Spectator columnist James Laube, which not only is broad and comprehensive but goes into great depth about many wineries. This guy really knows California wines.

Of the wine-course books (and there are dozens), my favorite is Kevin Zraly's Windows on the World Complete Wine Course (Sterling, 1998, $25), which is a paper version of the $695 course that Zraly teaches at the restaurant atop the World Trade Center. First published in 1985, it is updated every year. Read this book and you'll be more knowledgeable about wines than you were before, no matter what you know or how much you drink. The man has passion, enthusiasm, and a great palate. Plus, he writes really well.

David Marglin can be reached at wine[a]phx.com.

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