Pacific Bordeaux

Washington reds come into their own

Uncorked by David Marglin

Wine is a funny business. A region gets hot, and everyone catches on at about the same time. It's happening now with Spain. It's going to happen with Chile and Argentina (although 1998 will be a bit of a setback). But when the 1998 wines from the state of Washington are released next year, they will be the hot wines of the new millennium -- no matter when you think the millennium begins.

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Washington has been making good, and even great, wines for more than 30 years, but only in the last couple of years has the state become a downright dominant wine region for cabernets, merlots, and blends of the two. The movie version of the story might be titled A Bordeaux Is Born.

The state has had vines growing since the 1870s, but its first real winery was founded in the 1950s by agricultural visionary William Bridgeman, who had the notion that vinifera -- the species of vine that encompasses the great European grapes -- could be grown in the middle of the state, many miles from the ocean, if only there were a way to irrigate the incredibly arid soil. Bridgeman, along with others (primarily fruit growers), did find an effective irrigation system, and eventually growers began to plant cabernet sauvignon.

The first real cab release of any note wasn't until 1967, when the forerunner of what is now Chateau Ste. Michelle, Washington's largest winery, released its first wine. One impediment to Washington's ascendancy was the fact that until 1969, Washington state gave grape growers a tax credit based on the quantity of grapes produced, so there wasn't much incentive for growers to plant low-yield vinifera. As a consequence, Washington was known -- or, rather, rightfully unknown -- for its plethora of sweet, fortified wines from cheap, abundant grapes.

When the tax credit ended, there were a handful of wineries and only about 400 acres of vinifera in Washington. Three years later, there were at least 1200 acres.

Today there are more than 10 times that many acres, producing wines with a distinct Washington style. Often your mouth will be greeted by a lush fruit-and-flower combination, without the cedary, mossy notes you sometimes find in California cabs and merlots. Washington wines are real values, since the hyper-hype that surrounds many California wines has not yet inflated wine prices there. Plus, in Washington, wines from the biggest wineries -- Chateau Ste. Michelle, Hedges, Columbia Crest -- tend to be delightful and approachable, and well worth their price. There are fewer boutique wines available round these parts, but what you can get will pretty much rock your world, if you don't mind bold flavors. The wines that sell for $25 and up tend to be more balanced, at least when they have had a chance to age some.

Why has Washington been able to achieve such consistent (and often superlative) results in such a short time? One answer is the climate. A curious paradox of wine is that you get better red grapes from more arid, less fertile soils. The vines like to go down deep, so soil that has been barren for thousands of years can create lush, deep red wines, without any of the green flavors that can be caused by overly rich soil. Indeed, if anything, Washington wines can be too intense, but many winemakers have now throttled that back a bit, and the wines are for the most part quite elegant and balanced.

The combination of good (i.e., arid) soil, long sunny days, and temperatures that aren't too hot, plus steep slopes to maximize exposure to the sun, has proved to be a winner, and Washington -- with a latitude similar to Bordeaux's -- has quietly become America's most Bordeaux-esque region, creating great red wines made from the classic Bordeaux grapes of cab and merlot. I'm predicting that Washington is going to move into the limelight to stay. For now, the prices aren't exorbitant, and both 1997 and 1998 have produced big crops with plenty of ripe fruit. In short, there's gold in them there Washington hills, and plenty of good values. Ask your wine merchant for recommendations, or try these.

** Columbia Crest Merlot (Columbia Valley) ($14.99, Martignetti's). More tart than the others, with lots of raspberry and a hint of vanilla. This is a pleasing wine, good to serve with cheese and crackers by the fire. But it could use a touch of age to mellow.

**1/2 Chateau Ste. Michelle 1995 Merlot (Columbia Valley) ($17.95, Martignetti's). Down-the-middle merlot, with lots of cassis, good structure, inviting tannins, and a tinge of red bell pepper. This wine feels very flowery on the palate.

**1/2 Hedges 1995 Three Vineyards (Red Mountain) ($19.99, Martignetti's). All three of the vineyards are on Red Mountain, which produces mighty powerful fruit. The flavors are deep berry, with a laserlike intensity. Black fruit and sharp, tangy finishing notes make this a refreshing, if still immature, wine.

**1/2 Hedges 1997 Cabernet-Merlot blend ($11.50, Martignetti's). Surprisingly soft and supple, this baby has plummy fruits and some light violet notes. Plenty of lushness for such a young wine, but definitely drinkable now. Another find!

**1/2 Canoe Ridge Merlot 1996 ($19.99, Bauer Wines). Hints of juniper berries and hibiscus, with winning bright fruit. Very mature given its young age. Worth seeking out.

***1/2 Chateau Ste. Michelle Cold Creek Vineyards Cabernet 1995 (Columbia Valley) ($28.99, Martignetti's). Big, but well balanced, this drinks well now and will continue to improve with age. It's pungent, with some blueberry notes and a spareness that I found intriguing. A wine that rewards return visits and repeated sips.

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This weekend, don't miss the Boston Wine Expo, on Saturday and Sunday afternoon at the World Trade Center. Tickets are $43 at the door, but you can save five bucks if you call in advance: (877) WINEXPO. It's just about the best buzz you'll have in town all winter.

David Marglin can be reached at wine[a]phx.com.

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