Blanc slate

New year, new opinion for the world's most aggressive white

Uncorked by David Marglin

One of the greatest pleasures of being a wine devotee is the prerogative of changing your mind completely. I used to avoid ordering sauvignon blancs, especially sauvignon blancs from California, because, like many wine drinkers, I found them too pungent. At least one wine writer has noted that sauvignon blanc is the world's "most aggressive" varietal; many people describe the nose as reminiscent of, ahem, cat piss (doubtless this is not a compliment). Many sauvignon blancs have so many grassy, vegetal notes that the old me would have preferred a straight shot of wheatgrass juice.

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My tune changed, however, in 1997, when I first tasted the 1996 California sauvignon blancs.

Most of California's wine-growing regions are hot, which is why they can consistently churn out such excellent cabernets, merlots, and chardonnays. With sauvignon blanc, though, too much heat during the growing season creates all those herbal flavors, which then need to be masked by a lot of oak and wood flavors. Nineteen ninety-six was not a very hot year, nor was the harvest an abundant one. So prices tended to be high -- there wasn't as much wine to go around, and the varietal was benefiting from the ABC ("Anything But Chardonnay") backlash.

I was lucky enough to try the 1996 Spottswoode sauvignon blanc, and my tongue was drawn to the citrus and tropical-fruit flavors, the lush unoaked fruit, the sheer zestiness. I had another glass to follow the first, and behold, I was converted. This wine is available only from the winery or in restaurants -- a shame, because it's a beaut.

Now the 1997s have been released, and these may be the best American sauvignon blancs ever. Again, it wasn't a particularly hot year, but it was an abundant one -- so prices are reasonable, with most bottles available for less than a Jackson. First and foremost, these wines have a ton of acid, and wineries are again emphasizing the fruit. Straight away, you'll taste the pineapple and papaya, and -- if the wine is well made -- an elegant balance between the fruit and the veggies. (Note that these wines are not built to age. They're best when young, while the acids still have bite.) They pair well with seafood (especially shellfish) and any manner of fried foods.

Before you rush out to buy, you may want to know a bit more about the origins of sauvignon blanc. The best-known examples, historically, have been from the upper part of France's Loire Valley, where the wines known as Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are made of 100 percent sauvignon blanc. (A fair number of California sauvignon blancs have now taken a cue from the master of marketing, Robert Mondavi, and call their sauvignon blancs "Fumé Blanc," which means "smoky white" -- possibly to avoid confusion with that other lustrous sauvignon, cabernet.) These have long been favorite bistro wines in Paris, and thus they tend to be fairly costly, although the '96s dipped some in price owing to the robust harvest. The grape also goes into whites from Graves, an appellation in Bordeaux, where it is often softened some with Sémillon. And on the sweet side, sauvignon blanc is often blended into the mainly Sémillon-based sweet whites from Sauternes. Therein it provides acidity, which gives those sticky after-dinner wines a structure and a feeling of crispness that bring them alive.

While California is rocking the under-$20 sauvignon blanc market, the world's leading sauvignon blancs are from New Zealand, especially Cloudy Bay and Brancott. I am also a big fan of Mulderbosch, a South African sauvignon blanc that is widely available for about $20 a bottle. These have no oak, ultra-crisp fruit, and a tartness that makes them excellent wines to pair with your shellfish or jambalaya. Those foreign wines are darn fine, but the ones to buy right now were made in America. I'm proud to say I've become a real believer.

** Kendall Jackson Vintner's Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 1997 ($10.99, Marty's). Sweeter than many, with some effort at balance, this wine has enough tropical notes to make it an interesting art-opening or party pour. And for the price . . . hello.

** Benziger Fumé Blanc 1997 ($10.99, Marty's). Hay and straw, a little funky melon flavor, with a fine fruit-to-vegetable ratio. I detected some rutabaga and plenty of citrus in the finish.

**¹/₂ Chateau Ste. Michelle Horse Heaven Vineyard ($12.49, Martignetti's). This Washington wine packs a big fruit flavor, with a little wheatgrass thrown in up front for good measure. The tropical fruits are not far behind, and a full finish awaits as it glides down your gullet. Yet I got the sense that maybe the grapes were not totally ripe when picked. Look for the 1998 edition to be better.

***¹/₂ Lolonis Mendocino 1997 Fume Blanc ($12.95, Merchant's Wines and Spirits). A big wine with rich flavor, quite dense in the mouth -- feels most ample on the tongue, with some earthy vegetal notes and laser-sharp fruit. A clean finish and a superb value.

*** J. Fritz 1997 Sauvignon Blanc Jenner Vineyard ($12.95, Merchant's). Lots of grapefruit and pepper. Another big wine in the mouth, with loads of fruit and spice. A well-priced example of Sonoma's ability to turn out top quality when the weather allows.

**¹/₂ Ferrari-Carano Fumé Blanc ($13.99, Marty's). Light nose, quite racy, with loads of citrus and a hint of lemongrass. Shows good breeding, but winds up tasting a tad young. Pair this with Szechuan seafood, and look for it on the list at the new restaurant Lumière in West Newton.

*** Sanford Central Coast 1997 ($15.95, Brookline Liquor Mart). Bold, assertive, sharp fruit, plenty of papaya and pineapple. Well crafted, very full.

***¹/₂ Duckhorn 1997 (21.99, Marty's). This was the best I tasted, with full floral flavors and a round and fruity burst in the mouth. Beautiful, lush mouth feel, with jasmine and other spices. Later gulps revealed some honeysuckle essences deep within.

David Marglin can be reached at wine[a]phx.com.

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