India Quality

A Phoenix lunch spot, in more ways than one

On the Cheap by Stephen Heuser

Of all the buildings that could have burned down in Kenmore Square last August, why did we have to lose 536 Comm Ave? Planet Records melted; people were tossed out of their apartments; and -- well, this sounds heartless, but the real crusher for those of us who work in the neighborhood was the loss of India Quality, a quirky Northern Indian restaurant with $5.95 luncheon specials on butter chicken and eggplant dahiwala. Planet's record collection, sadly, will never recover, but now India Quality has enterprisingly resurfaced a block away, in a dugout space that used to be a Thai restaurant. The room, detailed in mauve and brass, is more sterile than the endearingly crowded old place, which clearly started life as someone's living room. But the cooking is still sharp; the relishes are, if anything, a bit fresher-tasting than they were before; and the basmati rice still comes with lurid touches of pink and orange. Our favorites are butter chicken ($5.95); the bitter, herbal mint chicken ($5.95); and a grainy vegetarian dish called malai kofta ($4.95). Dinner is a bit more expensive. Specials come with a free half-papadum and -- if you remember to ask for it -- a cup of tea after lunch.

India Quality, located at 484 Comm Ave, is open for lunch daily from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., and for dinner Monday through Friday from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday from 3 to 11 p.m. Call (617) 267-4499.

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