Bonne Chance Café

Soup and fried eggs near the Gare du Nord

by Katherine Guckenberger

ON THE CHEAP

What's a French café doing near North Station, where Irish bars and sports pubs reign? Bonne Chance doesn't offer cold beer after a FleetCenter concert or game, but it's no finicky little French place, either. The wrought-iron chairs and blue-and-white oilcloths covering the tables might pass for Provence, but much of the food -- the fried-egg breakfast sandwiches, the melts, and the wraps -- certainly won't.

The key to success in this neighborhood seems to be compromise. Bonne Chance should be known for its soups ($1.60 cup/$2.30 bowl), which include French onion; lentil; creamy mushroom; the more unusual Caribbean chicken, made with sweet potatoes, chili peppers, and mango; and chicken gumbo with sausage. Beef stew and chili, vegetarian or "con carne," are served over rice for an extra dollar. Bonne Chance also offers daily specials, such as roast lamb and rotisserie-chicken plates (about $4 to $6), and a salad bar. A free-standing fridge is always stocked with hard-boiled eggs, yogurt, and trendy fruit drinks.

Fortunately, Canal Street is untouched by the Big Dig. Of course, there are trucks that barrel through, according to manager Yong Yi, but if anything, the café seems to be benefiting from the number of contractors looking to find a quiet spot for a cup of joe.

Bonne Chance Café, located at 77 Canal Street (near North Station), Boston, is open Monday through Friday from 6:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Call (617) 742-3115.

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