Summer whites

Staring blancly into the sun

by Thor Iverson

UNCORKED

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Heat and wine just aren't a good combination. You already know that high temperatures can damage a wine in transit, at the wine shop, and in your cellar. But come summer, even pristine bottles turn sullen when faced with 80-plus-degree evenings, causing the most dedicated wine lovers to seek refuge in water, iced tea, and beer.

The problem is the alcohol. When wine gets too warm, alcohol starts to dominate the flavor, and an otherwise well-balanced wine ends up tasting like country moonshine. In addition, those flavors that do survive the alcoholic bullying taste heavy and dull. Suddenly, those big succulent reds from California, Bordeaux, and the Rhône Valley taste like liquid lead next to the very same steak they worked so well with in April.

It is possible to seek out lower-alcohol wines during the summer. Those interested in doing so should forget they've ever heard of California, Australia, and large parts of the Mediterranean, and concentrate instead on cold-weather wine areas. Why? Because in the latter regions, grapes tend to have lower sugar levels than those in warm climates that have long growing seasons. And since sugar is converted to alcohol during fermentation, less sugar means less alcohol. Concentrate on Germany, Austria, Alsace, Switzerland, and northeast Italy (Friuli, Alto Adige, and Trentino).

On the other hand, most wines can be enjoyed in the summer with a little preparation. It's still a good idea to avoid big cabernets, merlots, and chardonnays from anywhere (especially California and Australia), but some other high-alcohol wines, such as zinfandel, seem to do okay. The key is to chill everything before serving. Reds shouldn't be cold, but they should have a refreshing coolness to them. Rosés and whites should be ice-cold when first served (they'll warm to the proper temperature in a very short time) and kept near a cooler, ice bucket, or fridge for easy re-chilling. Sparkling wine has to sit on ice full time.

The heaviness factor is harder to combat. Basically, there's really only one solution, and it's one that will horrify many wine lovers: give up red wine.

Before anyone rises up in righteous indignation, think about summer food. Yes, there's some meat on the grill. But there are a lot of salads, vegetables, cold cuts, and seafood: things that don't have the dense, dark sauces or rich oven-baked savor that go so well with red wine. In fact, summer foods are the very foods that go best with crisp, thirst-quenching whites or well-chilled rosés. Low alcohol is good, but bright and zippy acidity (which is tremendously refreshing in the summer) is essential.

So the shopping list for vinous summer pleasures looks like this: sauvignon blanc from the Loire Valley (in the guise of sub-appellations Sancerre, Menetou-Salon, Pouilly-Fumé, Quincy, and Reuilly) and New Zealand. Pinot gris from Oregon and Alsace, pinot grigio from various Italian regions, or pinot blanc (pinot bianco) from Alsace or Italy. Riesling from Germany, Austria, or Alsace. Grüner veltliner from Austria, Moscato d'Asti from Italy, white Burgundy from the Mâcon, Soave from the Veneto, Muscadet from France, and sparkling wines other than Champagne.

Stick to these whites and crisp rosés from California, France, and Italy, and there'll be no need for beer this summer . . . unless, of course, you feel like having one.

Below, a few summer whites for hot nights.

1997 Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie "Clos des Alées" Vieilles Vignes ($12). Thankfully, the wine lives up to the ridiculously long name. It's got the lemon-lime citrus of the appellation (Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine), a fresh-baked-bread flavor from the way it's aged (sur lie, which means "on the lees" -- lees are the solid matter precipitated out during fermentation), and a creamy and structured intensity from the old vines (vieilles vignes). A tremendous wine, good now or in five years with whatever on the half-shell.

1998 Anselmi Soave Classico Superiore "San Vincenzo" ($12). Tangy, citrusy, utterly refreshing, with bracing acidity. The 1998 Soave Classico Superiore "Capitel Croce" ($17) is richer, with a pine-nut and mineral structure and a nice balance.

1998 Argiolas Vermentino ($12). Is it wine, or a fish fresh from the ocean? Well, it's definitely a wine, but it goes really well with the fish. Tropical orange and lemon flavors, with a long finish.

NV Prosecco di Conegliano Brut ($13). Sharp, bright, and clear, with remarkable intensity of flavor. Serve it with shellfish or by itself, well-chilled.

1998 Brancott Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Reserve Marlborough ($17). Light on the grass and chili pepper so common to New Zealand sauvignon blanc, and better than the '97 version of the same wine (which I liked). There's a salt-and-pepper spiciness to the slightly "green" flavors, high but balanced acidity, and a pleasant mineral undertone. Tasty with asparagus on the grill.

NV Mumm Cuvée Napa Blanc de Blancs ($18). The fresh, apple/lemon-lime chardonnay fruit delivers acidic zing in this very summery sparkler, but there's an intriguing sesame and anise character that keeps it interesting. The perfect opener to a New England lobster orgy.

Thor Iverson can be reached at wine[a]phx.com.

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