Sparkling what?

Bubbles in the strangest places

by David Marglin

UNCORKED

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I recently had occasion to taste what may well be the best wine ever made in Massachusetts: Westport Rivers' Imperial Sec Sparkling Riesling.

I admit that sounds a bit shocking at first -- Waiter, what are these bubbles doing in my riesling? -- but after the surprise of the first sip, this wine yields generous flavors of green apple and melon, and each further sip grips the mouth cleanly, with a pleasant lemon-meringue finish.

If you'd told me prior to trying it that I would be so fond of a sparkling riesling, I would have given you a bemused stare, maybe a little Mona Lisa smile. Riesling doesn't sparkle, does it? Chardonnay and pinot noir can sparkle: those are the primary grapes in Champagne. And chenin blanc can sparkle: it's used in sparkling Vouvrays from the Loire Valley. But the riesling grape isn't usually used in sparkling wines. It goes against nature, the French might say. Still, Westport Rivers has pulled it off. This wine is worth that Jackson -- not because it tastes like Champagne, but because it works on its own terms.

Most wine drinkers know that in the world of sparkling wine, there is Champagne -- the real stuff, from France -- and there are wines like Champagne. (Ignore for the moment that in the US, any sparkling wine can legally be called "champagne" -- a rule that's anathema to wine lovers and purists.)

But the world of sparkling wine is bigger than that. It isn't just about Champagnes and quasi-Champagnes; there are lots of quirky sparklers made from grapes that don't normally come to mind when you're thinking "bubbly." Like the Westport Rivers riesling, these wines can be just grand on their own terms, so long as you approach them with an open mind.

For instance, I remember the first time I tried Peter Rumball's deep-ruby-red Sparkling Shiraz. There is, after all, no such thing as red Champagne. There are lovely rosé Champagnes, but this wine is so red it's almost purple. One wine pro described it as having "all the wood, all the black fruit, everything you would expect in a shiraz, plus the bubbles." The red color can be startling, but the flavors are crisp, and the wine can be used for light toasts and long quaffs. Served cold, it makes a lovely summer cocktail (you can try it by the glass at the newly opened Washington Square Tavern in Brookline).

And then there is my favorite sparkler du jour, and du nuit: moscato d'Asti, which had excellent years in both 1997 and 1998. (When I say moscato d'Asti, I mean moscato d'Asti naturale, as opposed to moscato d'Asti spumante -- the latter is a cheap bulk-method wine.) Moscato -- also known as muscat in this country -- is a versatile and oft-overlooked grape; when treated with respect, as it is in Italy's southern Piedmont, it produces an excellent light sparkler. Usually, the alcohol content is only 5.5 percent (close to American beer), which is less than half of what most wines contain. I know I've said this before, but if I were going to get married, this is what I would serve. The good ones are light, crisp, with rose water, a lemon zing, and a taste of apple. The 1998 moscatos from La Spinetta, including the Vigneto Biancospino and Bricco Quaglia, are absolutely awesome.

Beyond those I have mentioned, there are other sparkling wines worth seeking for their excitement and quality. There are Spanish cavas, perennially cheap party wines (think Freixenet by Cordon Negro, in the black bottle) that can often make for fine quaffing; although they're not normally to my liking, people do dig them. Then there's the rosé wine from Bugey produced by Cerdon, made from gamay and poulsard grapes, which I recommended recently. Another wine to look for is Lambrusco, another sparkling red wine (this hails from Italy). The Concerto Reggiano rendition is quite serious, a frizzante wine selling for $17.99 (Bauer) that packs a mean berry wallop.

There are other Italian sparklers of note, such as the sleek Ferrari Rosé ($19.99 Bauer and elsewhere), which is all about summer strawberries served chilled in a bowl. This crisp and clean sparkler lights food up, and it is fairly versatile, pairing well with sweet, spicy, and tangy foods. Plenty refreshing, and refreshingly affordable compared to Champagne, wines such as this make you want the heat and humidity levels to remain high so that the wines can take us away from it all.

Westport Rivers' Imperial Sec Sparkling Riesling ($19.99, Bauer). A mouthful; clean crisp flavors. Brisk. Try it with lobster -- perfect.

Peter Rumball's Deep Red Sparkling Shiraz ($25, Bauer). Berry, cherry, cocoa -- powerful, deep flavor infusion. Think "over the top."

La Spinetta 1998 Moscato d'Asti Naturale, Vigneto Biancospino and Bricco Quaglia ($15.99, widely available). Lean, light, lemony, sweet; like an alcoholic soda pop -- a less-sweet Sprite, if you will -- but lithe, enticing, very sexy and seductive juice. The bubbles will pull you in.

Ferrari Rosé ($19.99, Bauer and elsewhere). A very taut wine, wild strawberries, sort of sharp and a bit biting. Works well, I believe, with really fishy fish such as salmon, monkfish, and bluefish.

Lambrusco Concerto Reggiano ($17.99, Bauer). A stiff, steep wine, very taut and tart. Needs the proper companionship of sharp food. This dry red sparkling wine gets better and loosens up with an hour or so in the glass. Open it in advance, if you can, and if you don't have a champagne stopper, drop an inverted teaspoon into the bottle before refrigerating; that will keep the bubbles in.

David Marglin can be reached at wine[a]phx.com.

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