Here's the beef

Redneck's BBQ

by Andrew Weiner

ON THE CHEAP

Riley's Roast Beef was a long-time landmark whose fame owed less to culinary achievement than to its late hours and proximity to Allston's "Beer Mile." It closed recently, but some benevolent power is looking out for those starved night owls who need a close encounter of the carnivorous kind: Riley's has been replaced by Redneck's BBQ.

Chances are the change has gone unnoticed by at least a few of Riley's last-call regulars. Redneck's has kept the distinctive neon signs of its predecessor. Food-wise, too, the song remains the same: meat is what's for dinner here. Don't bring along the special vegan in your life. The pulled-pork sandwich ($3.99) is served up Sloppy Joe-style, slathered in a sweet, kicky sauce. The jambalaya-gumbo soup ($2.99), while technically neither, wins points for its plucky flavor and liberal use of okra. "Best of Show" honors go to the corn dog ($2.99). A meal in itself, the dog stands a good three hands tall and is massive enough to be supported by a full-size chopstick.

Redneck's unusual pay-by-the-bone rib pricing answers the question famously posed in the movie I'm Gonna Git You Sucka: "How much for one rib?" The answer: $1.25, and worth it. Not to be overlooked are Redneck's home-brewed ginger ale, root beer, and watermelon sodas ($1.25/$1.99), which take the edge off the spicier dishes and make everything go down a little easier.

Redneck's BBQ, located at 140 Brighton Avenue, in Allston, is open daily from 11 a.m. to 3 a.m. Call (617) 254-9592.

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