**1/2

GOD STREET WINE

(Mercury)

Even the jam-band prototypes that groups like NYC's God Street Wine draw inspiration from -- namely the Grateful Dead and Allman Brothers -- have long endured the criticism that their music doesn't sound as good on CD as it does from the stage. And it's a commonplace that contemporary groove groups like GSW, Moe., Phish, and Widespread Panic leave the vibrancy, spontaneity, and, well, the jam at the door when they enter a recording studio. But GSW's homonymous Mercury debut is an exception to the rule: God Street Wine proves that a band known mostly for entertaining performances can produce a studio album that's not too slick or polished. The trick for this group is leaving in the cool organ and guitar jams that make their crowds wiggle and shake, and letting keyboardist Jon Bevo dish out a jazzy backdrop for guitarist/vocalist Lo Faber's extended leads. No, it's not the same as seeing them live. But it sets a fine example for any jam band in fear of the big ol' bad recording studio.

-- Jorge Ribas

(God Street Wine play the Somerville Theatre this New Year's Eve; call 625-4088.)