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Shino Express
A cut (and roll) above
BY SENGA POWERS
Previous Columns

Nestled on a street full of culinary gems, Shino Express is a diamond in the rough. Walk into this downstairs, bare-bones sushi bar, and with one look and whiff, you’re transported to fast-paced Tokyo, so recently depicted on the big screen in Lost in Translation. Sit down to devour the sushi, and you’ll swear you actually played the leading role.

Whether you’re a sushi novice or aficionado, you’ll find a menu catering to your every whim. Start out with a bowl of miso soup ($1) and the ever-popular salted soybean treats, edamame ($2.50) — here served cold — while watching the chefs skillfully construct the regular combo ($7.50): six pieces of randomly chosen nigiri and six of tuna maki ($2.50 on its own). If you aren’t so trusting and would prefer to make your own selections, you’ll find individual nigiri pieces of everything from cooked eel ($1.75) to yellowtail ($1). And with more than 20 maki options, you’re sure to find some roll to delight. Even non-fish-eaters can indulge with the veggie combo ($5.75) of cucumber roll, avocado roll, and carrot roll. Don’t worry if the menu doesn’t list the exact combination of ingredients you’re craving; the friendly sushi chefs are happy to accommodate special requests. What the restaurant doesn’t offer, however, is alcohol; you’ll have to make do with water or soda in place of sake or Kirin.

Whether you sit at the sushi bar, settle a few steps up on the "mezzanine" level — which offers a theater-like view of your meal’s preparation — or take your goodies out, the service is quick and enjoyable, with the chefs calling out their goodbyes whenever a patron exits. Most important, the value can’t be beaten: apparently not all purchases on Newbury Street break the bank.

Shino Express Sushi, located at 144 Newbury Street, in Boston, is open Monday through Saturday, from noon to 9 p.m., and on Sunday, from 1 to 9 p.m. Call (617) 262-4530, or visit http://www.shinoexpress.com/.


Issue Date: February 6 - 12, 2004
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