Twentysomething Dong Khanh was the emperor of Vietnam for a brief spell in the late-19th century. Installed on the throne by the colonizing French, Dong Khanh repaid the compliment (and annoyed Vietnamese nationalists) by traveling through his realm promoting Franco-Vietnamese friendship.

If culture-bridging Dong Khanh were alive today, you could imagine him lunching at the Chinatown restaurant that bears his name. On a recent Saturday afternoon, a parade of young people approached the counter to order treats off the joint’s imposing drink menu. The creamy avocado shake ($2.50) and papaya shake ($2) are favorites; iced coffee with condensed milk ($2) is also popular. Opaque tapioca pearls ($1) can be added to any fruit shake for "an extra yum."

The drinks are indeed yummy, but delicious food is what makes Dong Khanh a popular spot. The pho ($4.50 with rare beef and brisket, $5.50 with beef, tripe, etc.) bursts with flavor: the beef broth tastes of lemongrass, cilantro, and onion, the rare beef is tender and thinly sliced, and large sprigs of fragrant basil are furnished on the side. A vermicelli bowl with beef strips, egg roll, and (one) shrimp ($5.75) makes a square meal, served with a simple salad and bean sprouts, and garnished with mint, scallion, and peanuts. Beyond the pho and vermicelli bowls, Dong Khanh’s expansive menu includes fried-noodle dishes ($5.75 and up), rice plates ($5 and up), and an intriguing spicy lemongrass broth served with brisket and udon noodles ($5.50).

Dong Khanh may be named for royalty, but its space, though clean, doesn’t evoke an imperial palace. No matter. Once the high-quality, freshly prepared Vietnamese food appears (with little delay), you’ll focus on the taste of your meal and forget all about the steady whirr of shakes in the blender.

Dong Khanh, located at 83 Harrison Street, in Boston, is open daily, from 9:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Call (617) 426-9410.