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Qdoba Mexican Grill
Fresh city
BY LIZA WEISSTUCH
Previous Columns

We, the majority of the country, are in California’s debt for plenty: there’s the surfing, the style, the citrus, and, of course, the silver screen. That’s to say nothing of the entertainment supplied by the rampant celebrity scandals and the way the West Coast cosmetic-surgery industry has overhauled a nation. Until about two months ago, we would have said we’re beholden to Cali for its celebrated burritos; then Qdoba Mexican Grill, which originated in Denver, opened up shop in Boston. You won’t often find us waxing ecstatic when a new franchise rears its head in the Hub. After all, this is the city where people pit Dunkin’ Donuts against Starbucks as vehemently as they debate the virtues of big government versus small, or paper versus plastic. But we sing a melodious rodeo-inflected ditty to Qdoba. Its "fast-casual" Tex-Mex fare is making notable headway in shattering the myth that California has a monopoly on fast, fresh, and flavorful tortilla-wrapped meals.

No matter what time of day you hit any of the Boston stores, you’re bound to see adobo-spiced chicken roasting on the open grill and plump avocados being mashed, or hear ingredients being chopped for a fresh batch of pico de gallo. All the scrumptious constituents of every dish are on display behind the counter, so we recommend that you have at least your preferred shell in mind before you decide what to fill it with. Your choices: burrito ($5.09–$6.69), hot-pressed quesadilla ($5.39–$6.79), soft or hard taco ($1.89–$6.39), or salad ($4.69–$5.99), served up in a crunchy tortilla bowl. They all start with piquant cilantro-lime rice, and you can build from there. Don’t say we didn’t warn you about the decisions: first it’s chicken, steak, or veggies; then it’s black beans or pinto; finally, it’s how zesty you like your salsa. Want a little extra sour cream? Just ask. Be forewarned, though, that the habañero may leave those of you with a tough palate hankering for more heat. (We’re guessing this has something to do with Denver’s distance from Dallas.) For the most part, Qdoba makes a bold first impression. There’s a substantial list of "signature burritos," and while a grilled-veggie burrito wasn’t a "one-of-a-kind recipe" last time we checked, we did have to re-read the roster of ingredients in the chicken-pesto burrito before we could process how much was made fresh.

Qdoba Mexican Grill, located at 62 Summer Street, in Boston, is open Monday through Friday, from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m., and on Saturday, from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Call (617) 357-0791. Also located at Prudential Center Food Court, 800 Boylston Street, in Boston, and at 393 Huntington Avenue, in Boston.


Issue Date: September 24 - 30, 2004
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